The poles in Ketchikan’s totem parks are, for the most part, 20th-century re-carvings. The Totem Heritage Center holds the real thing: poles carved in the 19th century and left standing in the villages of Tongass and Village Island (Tlingit) and Old Kasaan (Haida) when their people moved away. In the early 1970s, with the consent of Native elders, the surviving poles were brought to Ketchikan to save them from rotting away, and the centre opened in 1976 to house them.
They are shown as they were found — unpainted, silvered and cracked by a century of weather, some only fragments — in a dim, quiet hall. After the bright colours of the totem parks the effect is powerful. Around them are displays of baskets, masks, regalia and photographs of the villages as they once were. The centre is run by the City of Ketchikan’s museum department and also teaches Northwest Coast carving and weaving, so the tradition it preserves is still being passed on.
Top things to do: Totem Heritage Center
The pole gallery
More than thirty poles and fragments are held here, with a selection on display. Look closely at the adze marks, the remaining traces of paint and the figures — bears, ravens, eagles, a memorial pole from Village Island. Labels explain where each stood and what is known about it.
Art of the Northwest Coast
Changing exhibits show cedar-bark and spruce-root weaving, carved halibut hooks, bentwood boxes, masks and contemporary work by local Native artists.
Talk to the staff
Guides are often on hand to explain the difference between memorial, mortuary and heraldic poles, and how the poles were collected. It is the best place in town to ask questions.
City Park and the creek
Outside, a footbridge crosses Ketchikan Creek to City Park, a pleasant green space with old hatchery ponds. In late summer salmon spawn in the gravel here.
How to get there
- Address: 601 Deermount Street, on the east side of Ketchikan Creek.
- On foot: 20–25 minutes from the downtown berths. The nicest route is via Creek Street, the Married Man’s Trail and Park Avenue, following the creek upstream.
- By shuttle: the free summer downtown shuttle has usually stopped here; borough buses also pass nearby.
- By tour: some town tours include the centre along with a short forest walk.
Insider tips
- In the cruise season the centre has generally been open daily; in winter, hours are reduced. Check the city museums’ website for current times.
- Admission is modest — a few dollars — and a combined ticket with the Tongass Historical Museum has been offered.
- Allow 30–45 minutes. It is small, and it rewards going slowly.
- Flash photography may be restricted to protect the poles; ask at the desk.
- See this collection first if you can — the totem parks make more sense afterwards.
Best tours for this sight
These bookable Ketchikan excursions fit best with a visit to Totem Heritage Center:
Guided tour Ketchikan: Town Tour, Totem Heritage Center & Trail Hike
A guided tour that combines a narrated drive around Ketchikan with a visit to the Totem Heritage Center and its original 19th-century poles, and a hike on a trail in the Tongass National Forest. Check the product page for the current price and pickup point.
- Narrated tour of the town
- Visit to the Totem Heritage Center
- Hike in the Tongass National Forest
Guided tour from $84 Ketchikan: Alaska Native Cultural and Scenic Shore Excursion
A good-value introduction to the Native cultures of Southeast Alaska. You travel north along the coast to Totem Bight State Historical Park, where a guide explains the poles and the clan house, with stops for scenery and wildlife on the way. The most-reviewed Ketchikan tour on the platform.
- Totem Bight State Historical Park with a guide
- Stories of the Haida, Tlingit and Tsimshian peoples
- Chances to spot eagles, salmon and bears along the way
Guided tour from $99 Ketchikan: City Tour, Saxman Village & Salmon Tasting
A guided overview of Ketchikan’s history and landmarks, with a visit to Saxman Native Village to see its famous collection of totem poles and a tasting of smoked salmon. Reviews are more mixed than for other tours, so read the latest before booking.
- Narrated tour of Ketchikan’s landmarks
- Saxman Native Village and its totem poles
- Smoked salmon tasting
